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The Vermont tasting tour: craft beer, artisanal cheese & maple
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The Vermont tasting tour: craft beer, artisanal cheese & maple

Heady Topper, Hill Farmstead, Cabot, Jasper Hill and sugar-on-snow — a three-day itinerary.

17 min read

Terroir, not accident

Vermont tastes like nowhere else on earth. The Green Mountain State produces more craft beer per capita than any other state in the nation, yields over half of America’s pure maple syrup, and crafts sharp, cave-aged cheddars that routinely beat European heavyweights at international competitions.

This is not an accident — it is terroir. The same granite-filtered soil, crisp alpine air and lush mountain pastures that feed Vermont’s sugar maples also nourish its dairy herds and inspire its master brewers.

The taste trail bucket list

Six destinations that define Vermont flavor.

The Alchemist, Stowe — hazy New England double IPAs. Try Heady Topper and Focal Banger. Year-round.

Hill Farmstead Brewery, Greensboro — farmhouse ales, saisons and sours. Try Edward and Arthur. Spring through autumn.

Cabot Farmers' Store, Waterbury and Cabot — sharp and vintage cheddars. Try Clothbound Cheddar and Seriously Sharp. Year-round.

Branon Family Maple, Fairfield — pure organic maple syrup. Try Grade A dark amber and sugar-on-snow. March to April.

Jasper Hill Farm, Greensboro — cellar-aged artisanal cheeses. Try Bayley Hazen Blue and Harbison. Year-round.

Lawson’s Finest Liquids, Waitsfield — IPA hybrids and maple ales. Try Sip of Sunshine. Year-round.

The Alchemist: home of Heady Topper

Vermont changed global beer history. In the early 2000s local brewers rebelled against the razor-sharp bitterness of West Coast IPAs, creating the New England IPA: unfiltered, juicy, heavily dry-hopped and impossibly smooth.

Before The Alchemist, IPAs were crystal clear and piney. Co-founder John Kimmich brewed Heady Topper — an 8 percent ABV double IPA packed with a proprietary hop blend — and deliberately left it unfiltered.

The famous instruction to drink from the can is not marketing fluff. Drinking directly from the can keeps volatile hop aromatics trapped inside the vessel, delivering a burst of citrus, pine and tropical fruit with every sip.

The Stowe brewery on Mountain Road is a state-of-the-art green facility with tastings, can sales and an indoor-outdoor hangout framed by mountain views. Do not stop at Heady Topper — grab a four-pack of Focal Banger, their 7 percent IPA built on Mosaic and Citra, or one of their crisp lower-ABV rotationals.

Hill Farmstead: the mecca on the hill

Hidden deep in the dirt-road hinterlands of the Northeast Kingdom lies Hill Farmstead Brewery, founded by Shaun Hill on his ancestral family land. Named best brewery in the world by RateBeer numerous times, Hill Farmstead treats brewing as a sacred art form.

The philosophy is local and literal: well water pulled directly from the farm’s bedrock, local ingredients, traditional barrel-aging. The beers are named after Shaun’s ancestors — Edward, Arthur, Florence, Anna — and are delicate, balanced and deeply expressive of the landscape.

Reservations or pre-orders are recommended on peak summer and fall weekends. Bring a picnic blanket, sit on the grassy hillside and savor a glass of Edward pale ale with the Green Mountains laid out in front of you.

The cheese trail: Cabot to Jasper Hill

You cannot talk about Vermont beer without talking about cheese. The state has more artisanal cheesemakers per capita than anywhere in North America, anchored by farmer-owned cooperatives and small-batch affineurs.

Cabot Creamery, founded in 1919 by 94 dairy farm families, is a cooperative owned by hundreds of local farm families across New England. Vermont cheddar is famously sharp, tangy and crumbly, and unlike Wisconsin cheddars it contains no added annatto dye, leaving it a natural cream-white or pale ivory. Seek out Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, aged in the subterranean vaults at Jasper Hill, along with Seriously Sharp and the limited Private Reserve 3-Year.

Jasper Hill Farm in Greensboro, just down the road from Hill Farmstead, is an anchor of America’s craft cheese movement. Its 22,000-square-foot underground cellar ages cheeses from across the state under precise temperature and humidity control. Do not miss Harbison, a bark-wrapped soft-ripened cheese you scoop with a spoon, and Bayley Hazen Blue, a raw-milk blue with a fudgy texture and peppery finish.

Von Trapp Farmstead rounds out the spectrum with organic washed-rind mountain cheeses such as Oma and Savage.

Liquid gold: maple and sugar-on-snow

When late winter days warm into the 40s while nights drop below freezing, the maple sap begins to run. Vermont sugarhouses light their wood-fired evaporators and fill the mountain air with sweet maple steam.

The grading scale is about flavor, not quality. Golden with delicate taste comes from early season with subtle maple notes; amber with rich taste is mid-season, the traditional pancake syrup; dark with robust taste arrives late season with caramel and baking notes; and very dark with strong taste is the final run, intense enough for glazes and beer.

There is no culinary tradition more uniquely Vermont than sugar-on-snow. Pure Grade A syrup is boiled to roughly 234 degrees Fahrenheit, the soft-ball candy stage, then poured directly over fresh clean snow or packed shaved ice, where the cold instantly freezes it into a thick, tacky, taffy-like ribbon. It is traditionally served with a sour donut to cut the sweetness, a dill pickle to reset the palate, and black coffee or local cider.

Three-day tasting itinerary

Perfect pairings, day by day.

Day 1: IPAs and sharp cheddar — Stowe and Waterbury. Start with cider donuts at Cold Hollow Cider Mill, sample aged cheeses at the Cabot Farmers' Store in Waterbury, and finish with fresh pours at The Alchemist in Stowe.

Day 2: Lawson’s and local farmsteads — the Mad River Valley. Head south to Waitsfield for a pint of Sip of Sunshine at Lawson’s, lunch at the Warren Store, and tours of nearby organic dairy farms.

Day 3: the hilltop pilgrimage — the Northeast Kingdom. Drive north for an afternoon of farmhouse ales at Hill Farmstead in Greensboro, followed by a tasting plate of Jasper Hill’s vault-aged cheeses.

Good to know

Why do you drink Heady Topper from the can?+

The instruction is functional, not marketing. Drinking straight from the can keeps the volatile hop aromatics trapped in the vessel, delivering the full burst of citrus, pine and tropical fruit that would otherwise dissipate in a glass.

Where is Hill Farmstead and can I visit?+

In Greensboro, deep in the Northeast Kingdom down unpaved roads. It is open to visitors, but hours are limited and reservations or pre-orders are recommended on peak summer and fall weekends. Bring a blanket and a cooler.

What Vermont cheese should I buy?+

Cabot Clothbound Cheddar, aged in Jasper Hill’s underground vaults, plus Seriously Sharp for everyday eating. From Jasper Hill itself, Harbison — a bark-wrapped soft cheese you eat with a spoon — and Bayley Hazen Blue, a fudgy raw-milk blue.

What is sugar-on-snow?+

Pure maple syrup boiled to about 234°F, the soft-ball candy stage, then poured over fresh snow where it freezes into a taffy-like ribbon. It is traditionally served with a sour donut, a dill pickle to reset the palate, and black coffee or cider.

What do the maple syrup grades mean?+

Flavour intensity, not quality. Golden and delicate comes from the early season; amber and rich is mid-season pancake syrup; dark and robust is late season with caramel notes; very dark and strong is the final run, used for glazes and brewing.

The Vermont tasting tour: craft beer, artisanal cheese & maple

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